The true cost of fashion
This is an update of a blog post from 2012.
It's the inconvenient truth of the rag trade: an abundance of cheap, trendy clothes -- also known as "fast fashion" -- carries a hidden cost of human misery. For the American consumer, it is easy to ignore the problem of sweatshop labor because, like the migrant workers who harvest our food, the people who make our clothing are mostly invisible. "Sweatshop" once referred to a system of production, where garment producers contracted with middlemen to handle unskilled tasks on a piecework basis. Because of the fierce competition among these subcontractors, this "sweating" system tended to not only depress wages, but place tremendous pressure on the middlemen to do just about anything to increase productivity, resulting in long workdays, crowded workplaces and grinding working conditions. After the Triangle Shirtwaist fire in 1911, labor laws and unionization helped improve conditions, propelled by consumer demand for sweat-free products.
Since the 1970s, the gains of the Progressive Era began to be eroded, first by relocating of garment production to parts of the US with fewer unions, and then to countries with less worker protection. Out of sight, out of mind. But it isn't just a problem of outsourcing. Every once in awhile, we are reminded that sweatshops still exist within our borders, despite the legal protections available.
I plan more posts on this subject. For those who want consume more ethically, check out Sweatfree Communities and the National Consumers League. Finally, I highly recommend the documentary film The True Cost, available on Netflix and other streaming services.
For several years, between 2007 and 2013, I maintained a blog called "Nice White Lady" that is sort of the mother of Everything Else. I described it as "a forum for my ruminations on everyday ethical concerns", beginning with thoughts on racial justice and other political topics, and finally shifting to ethical consumption and voluntary simplicity. Eventually, as my professional energies were focused on (finally) finishing my book on the origins of gendered clothing for babies and toddlers, Nice White Lady faded into the background. But I am realizing that there is a lot of good stuff there that still interests me and might interest others, so I am going to go through it and see what can be salvaged and updated. Better to have everything all in one place, perhaps. If you want to see the original, it's here. Warning; I was terrible at tagging back then.